Gem knowledge

Pearl types explained — freshwater, saltwater and shell

Pearls are the only gem made by a living animal — and the only one that arrives ready to wear.

Pearls are the only gem produced by a living animal and the only one that
needs no cutting or polishing. Understand three types and you can shop the
whole market.

Freshwater — the workhorse

Grown in mussels, mostly in China; one mussel yields many pearls. Mostly
nacre (solid), which makes them durable and surprisingly affordable. Shapes
range from baroque to near-round; modern quality is far better than their
reputation.

Saltwater — the classic

Akoya (the classic white round strand), South Sea (large, satin lustre,
white/gold) and Tahitian (naturally dark colours). Bead-nucleated: a shell
bead inside, nacre coating outside. Priced per quality of lustre, surface,
shape, size and colour.

Shell pearls — the honest imposter

A shell bead coated in pearl essence. Consistent and cheap; a legitimate
fashion material when SOLD AS SUCH — misrepresentation is where the trouble
starts.

Judging quality: lustre first

Lustre (the sharpness of light reflections) matters more than size. Then
surface cleanliness, then shape, then size, then colour. The
school's pearl webinars cover grading visually — free.

Care

Last on, first off (perfume kills nacre), wipe after wear, store soft and
flat. Knotted strands get re-strung periodically — see the
[knotting guide](https://beadjewellery.info/pearl-knotting-guideU inline).

What students say

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— Melani A. (Indonesia) · published student feedback

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